Back safe and sound

The Twin Cities are a wonderful backdrop for a sunrise - we drove through the night to get back to Campus. What a trip. Its been odd to be back because everyone wants to know how it is. I want to share with them more than just the alcohol and poverty and the bad history. I want to share with them the beauty. I want to share with them the good things in their spirituality: the community, the totality of it and the willingness to led the Holy Spirit move them. I need to not think about it for a few days for now though. Wow.

Here some of the group serve meals in White Clay, NE. The needs of the community are overwhelming: 80 percent unemployment! 

My friend Steve at one of the top 5 sporting events ever in my lifetime: The Eagles beat the Falcons to go to the Super Bowl! 

Su Anne Big Crow; a fiting finale

Su Anne Big Crow was a high school basketball star here, whose skill took her across the world. Sadly, her life ended before she could go to college due to a car accident. However, she is a larger than life person here. Not only was she beyond good in basketball, but she used her stardom to speak out against alcohol and drugs, even making a video against such use. She said the reservation would be a Happy Town if a generation went alcohol free. A story of her fearlessness. In a game against an opposing white team, who lives in an area contested by the Indians (ie, really really hostile turf), the opposing (and home) fans were mocking the Indian war chants and yelling loudly before a game such that the other teammates did not want to even go out for Pine Ridge. Su Anne, the youngest player at the time, took control and walked out first. As they started to mock chant, she took off her warmup jacket and began to do the actual shawl dance...an in doing so, more than silenced the crowd, but got them cheering for her. She shows us that, indeed, even a child shall lead them. She also stands as a testiment to Lakota pride and hope for the future!

The Historian

"White people need something written in order to believe it" waxed Leonard, a historian in the tribe who develops resources for children at an Elementary School. He was a mystic, someone wise and spiritual, someone who sees beautiful connections where others see logical gaps, but is smart enough to make you believe. He talked today us today about the Lakota before whites arrived and gave a picture of a very complex society, far more engaged in extensive commerce (even with the Aztecs) and agriculture than the simple Buffalo hunter image would offer. He also offered us a long discussion on identity, native spirituality, and the Black Hills. Perhaps the saddest thing he shared is that the Lakota custom of leaving dead bodies on scaffolds to wither had to be stopped because white people took the bodies for science. The most hopeful thing he shared was simply his attitude. In a lot of other poor communities, the hope is escape. Here the hope is in the past. Many people chose not to leave, but to better their people. That is indeed admirable.

The Turtle and the Cross

Will Peters in English; Teacher of the Red Way in Lakota. Currently, a member of tribal council and formerly a teacher, I will let his words speak for himself. On Columbus: "I mean who gets a day named after him for discovering what was already discovered." On White weddings: "What kind of question is: Who gives this woman...women are not property!" On Welfare for Indians: "It destroys the family because it is better for the couple to separate to get more money and the man's job of providing is taken over by welfare." On Rap music: "People get caught up in profanity, that they lose sight of the profound." On his enemies: "People don't realize I pray for them, even when they yell at me." On Jesus: "People need to let him out of the box." On the fact he attends both Sun Dances and Church: "I am the most prayed for person in the world. The Sun Dancers pray for me when I go to Church - I am going all "white" they worry. The Christians pray for me when I go to the Sun Dance - I am going all "native" they worry." On the Black Hills: "Some say we came from a land bridge from Asia, but I believe we came from there; from space, it is shaped like a human heart; it is the heart of the world." On Jesus again: "What do Christians ask to be put in their heart - Jesus. When people come against you, be like the turtle and go there, where Jesus is."

The Law and The Hoop

This morning we heard from an elder who has actaully taken a case against the government (US vs Big Crow) and won. He discussed a wide variety of policy problems, from the small (if a person starts taking classes at the college, they lose their unemployment money) to the large (the land in the Black Hills belongs to the Indians). He articulated, in my mind, an outdated view that looked at money as a fixed quantity and that the fight was not for money creation, but money division. (Side note: Larry, the pastor here, pointed out that even the different Souix tribes in SD have to fight for resources from the state). A certain cynicism filtered his thoughts; but then again, he was falsely accused of embezzlement by the Government. Perhaps the most humbling comment he made was when he talked about filing for unemployment and his need for signatures to show he was looking for a job. He quickly pointed out how few places offered employment on this reservation: schools, the hospital, government offices and a handful of businesses.

This afternoon we saw a hoop dancer at the local elemenary school. A hoop danced dances with leatherly hola-hoops. It was pretty good dancing and some pretty good acrobatics. He also had taught the kids some of the dances and that was neat to see. However, most interesting was his teaching of Indian culture. He asked the kids if they had done their assignment: to show their friends the circle on the horizon, the line where father sky meets mother earth. He offered that we needed both the masculine and feminine energy. At one point he told the kids to get into a half-moon (as opposed to a half-circle). He later commented during a game with the kids that people had abused mother earth, polluting her and mistreating her children, but that, during this game, if they stayed very close to her, they would be safe. It was odd to hear such talk because this was not some tree-hugger or naturalist or romantist, but someone articulating the beliefs of their culture.

Wounded Knee and Christianity revisited

Today we visited the "battle" site of Wounded Knee. Nothing but tragedy. The saddest thing is not simply this one historical butchering, but the fact that the US Government has been so slow to claim the evil that occured here. The sign finally reads "massacre", but the word massacre simply covers the word "battle." There is no exhibit saying, look, we were really really bad people here. There is no massive apology from the South Dakota Senate. Nothing. Just a sign, which although the name is changed, still reads history from the very same white perspective that called this a battle. Wounded Knee empitomizes, but does not nearly encapsulate, the suffering and destruction of a people. While History cannot be changed, it can be ignored and I believe, without any public acknowledgement on site of the destruction, we do this. I must admit, this last week has left me with serious questions about God and evil and prayer.

Tonight we heard from a minister and elder in the community. He believed that some of the difficulties of the Church here do not simply stem from Christian antipathy, but reflect the challenges felt across the nation in rural areas. Money shortages and secular distractions exist today all across the plains, not just Pine Ridge County!

IHS: Indian Health Services

Tonight we got a tour of the Hospital. It is a wonderfully modern building...which is underwhelmingly understaffed. They have a great ICU area...but no ICU doctors work on staff currently. The bizarre thing about the Hospital is that they deal with very "modern" problems like meth-babies and STDs, but they also face very "old" problems, like TB and Whooping cough (and not just in small quantities). The infant mortality rate here is the worst in the country. It was interesting to see how Lakota culture impacted the provision of healthcare; they had phone numbers for pastors and medicine man; the mission statement involved the key Indian symbol (a cross and circle); medicine men can ask for scapels for sun dances. However, the overwhelming impact of being on a rez was the reality of the situation: diabetes, younger pregnancies (although teen pregnancies are going down), a rural population in need of distributed health services. The nurse here indicated that often people who come for help there will grow uncontrollably angry at the staff due to the slowness in getting help; the anger expressed is not simply a reflection of the particular situation, but manifestation of years of anger at white America. However, the nurse loved her job. I think the people that chose to work here see obvious meaning in their professions.

Church

Today we went to a Presbyterian Church...and doubled the number of people there. This 8 person a sunday attendance, however, is not uncommon to the churches I have seen on the reservation, whether conservative or liberal or fundamentalist or low-church or whatever. Perhaps the Churches here are feeling the backlash against the association of Christianity with Western (White American) thought. As I reflected on the service today, I realized that little was Indian outside of two hymns we sang in Lakota. The translations, the "liturgy", and the other hymns were not "Lakotan." At the same time, the people (across the reservation) remain intensely spiritually and sun-dances are booming in popularity.

Playing God is not fun

No sooner than we had gotten out of the car from Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse (see previous blog), then we had a mendicant artisan wanting to sell us his wares. The man claimed that he was out of propane and that he needed money for the gas for his three children. He looked sober. His stuff was pretty decent quality. None of us had any desire to spend more money on trinkets (we've done plenty of that this week) and none of us had ever met the man. Should have we given him the money? The problem is that so many people here need money and food and gas. I could easily go out and buy 200 worth of groceries and just walk around and give it to people who would need it. I really do not want to play God - deciding who is honest, whose need is greatest, whether charity today would be better spent on investments? In fact, at this point, the idea of justice seems strange to me. I do not know what Lakota culture in the 21st century should or could look like. I know that what I saw this morning as I went running - trash all along the highway - does not belong, but the more I stay here, the more I long to see change, but the more I wonder, what could and should be done?

Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore

Today our group visited the Black Hills, home to bunch of national forests, parks, state parks and monuments. Mount Rushmore was very majestic. There is a great amount of info at the park about America and how we realized our manifest destiny. It was a bit difficult, after seeing the "losers" in the Westward Expansion, to read such a one-sided and positive description of American expansion. However, I do not want to look totally negatively upon a rather visionary project and the lives of four visionary Presidents. The Indians, in response to Mount Rushmore, have private funded the construction of a monument to Crazy Horse, the Indian Chief at Little Bighorn. The monument, also to be carved out of stone, if ever completed, will probably be one of the wonders of the world. The thing is massive, intended to be over 500 ft high...progress goes slow. After 50 years, they have completed the face...they still plan for a torso, extended arm, front half of his horse. Not only this, but they want a huge heritage museum for Indians. The sculptor, not an Indian, refused to take federal funds, a policy that continues after his death. All-in-all a beautiful day in one of the truly beautiful parts of the country--complete with Buffalo on the side of the roads!

The Casino

Most Indian Reservations receive money from the Casino's allowed on their reservations. So last night we went to the Pine Ridge Casino. I had heard this place was small, which made sense because there are no major roads or cities nearby. I was completely underwhelmed. 5 card tables and maybe 500-600 slot machines. No craps, no video poker, nothing but those handful of card tables and slots. There is no way this casino is paying for people across the reservation, but it does provide some good jobs. I ended up making some money at Poker, where the women running the table (women run everything here) was so helpful and friendly. Other Casinos would not have taught me how to play and instructed me when to bet!

Afterwards we went to this bar where I met a few near-reservation whites. Not that they said anything specifically racist, but based on their comments it was pretty clear that the reservation was not the object of their compassion...indeed, he criticized the progress of construction of the Crazy Horse monument, which is privately funded, instead of commenting on how the government or someone should be giving more. "I am not impressed" The feeling is mutual; the dude had his 11 year-old girl there in the lounge the entire time as people drank and sang.

Public Boarding School

On the reservation, they actually have public boarding schools. The dorms, coed, house kids from elementary on up, with most of the boarders being high schoolers. The kids could go home on the weekends, but as we found out, most do not want to go home. For most of these kids, home is world of alcohol and poverty; school is a world of clean and attention. Apparently, the calendar here evolves around the 1st of the month, when welfare checks are handed out. At this time, kids get excited about new possibilities with their parents and often return unsatisfied and angry. Also, drug and alcohol abuse are rampent in the dorms. However, I did not leave this school on a discouraging note. Lakota as a language is being taught again. The staff seemed affectionate and optimistic. The leadership is quality. Last night I heard about another program designed to help youth stay off drugs and alcohol. Again, a program where the leadership is quality; however, the government has not renewed the funding for this program. Tonight...the women's basketball team...

Pow-Wow

The last 24 hours were full of song and dance, amazingly pride-filled and beautiful. Last night a drummer came to us and taught us some basic dances. It was really neat to hear him, with such pride, explain the dances and more about Lakota history. He recalled Custard's Last Stand from the Lakota perspective. The Lakota people claim that no one wanted to kill him, because he was so evil and no one wanted his spirit to enter their own; indeed, they could have killed him before but let him live until that battle.

Today I saw a Pow-Wow. The Drumming and outfits were amazing. The drummers were only males and all the dance competitions were by sexes. The colors were really overwhelming. I got the sense that, even though some kids were not paying attention, this was something they were not just doing to please an older generation. It was quite different from ethnic festivals I have seen in ethic enclaves on the East Coast, where dying elder generations want a younger generation to carry on something. I really got the sense that the kids were into it and this was important to them (even if they could not keep quiet and focused for 4 hours...)

Today the most I ever heard was 8 to 10 drummers. To hear 60 would be overwhelming, even transcendent.

The Darkness did not overcome it?

Okay, I have seen alcohol destory the lives of friends and families, but now I see how alcohol destroys a people. Today we traveled to a border town in Nebraska that sells alcohol to the Indians, who, by law, cannot buy or sell alcohol on the reservation. 11,000 cans of beer are sold a day between three stores. The population of the reservation is 35,000, but really, the population of the nearest parts on the reservation are closer to 17 to 18,000. So I went into one of these three stores today and it was like McBeer. There were no isles for perusing. A white man behind a counter with the all the types of beers laid out. The price chart was made from those number/letters you see on Fastfood places. This was no a liquor store. This was beer, fast-food style. 11,000 cans...18,000 people...every day and night. 50 percent of the population is under 19. When I was in this circle of ministers in the area they were talking about al-anon programs for teenagers. Teenagers. Indeed, the woman behind the counter told us how her 17 year old daughter had already been through substance abuse programs.

So we served food today outside of a Christian thrift store (where I got a cool shirt and Trivia Pursuit) and nearly everyone who came reaked of alcohol. A couple of guys at one point walked out of the alcohol store and swore at me. Being a tale white male isn't the hit of the party around here. I feel like today, as I saw the alcohol machine, I encountered the forces of evil described in Ephesians as "Kosmokrators" - cosmic powers. The evil of alcohol in this community is not simply one that leads one individual to waste a life, but one that brings down an entire nation. Many in the community and even in that dark town are hopeful that indeed, the light will overcome the darkness. Indeed, hopeful people are everywhere and I do hear a new Song, declaring the salvation of the Lakota people out of their misery. But today the full plight hit me.

A run down Poverty Lane

As I went running this morning, I found myself in a pretty rundown area. I have no idea about its relative poverty, but it was pretty overwhelming. At first it was not disturbing because it looked like a place where people used to live - houses with boards in their windows, burnedout cars, unchained dogs. Return to the houses - they were small. I mean as small as my room in New York City small, with some windows not even boarded up. And then it hit me, as a car or two started, that people actually lived here. People, in America, live in aggregations of concrete huts that make trailor parks look like luxury developments. And then, at the top of the hill, was a development built with the help of government aid. Here there were no extra burned out cars. The streets were paved (unlike before). There were even sidewalks and fire hydrants. The cars even looked like decent cars. It was like I had left the Indian Ghetto and had traveled to 1950. It was bizarre. I am not sure how peolpe get in that neighborhood, but what a difference!

Also on the college yesterday, the woman made the point that "our elders" sanctioned and encouraged the advancement of the college. She also made the point that they now have their first female elder. The more things change, the more things stay the same....

Not that different after all...

So today I am playing blocks with one of the Indian boys and we decide to build animals out of the blocks. I expect him to want to build animals like: Buffalo or Elk or Coyote. Instead, he was like: Giraffe, Elephant, etc. There were two things "Indian" about him: His longer hair and his shirt that said "Indian Pride." But in terms of mannerisms or language, I noticed nothing else. Some others said that the girls in the group were more passive, especially toward the boys, but I wonder 5-10 white kids in Suburbia if the same gender patterns would exist. A few boys were a "handful" but I think that exists in every culture...

OLC and Wounded Knee

OLC stands for Oglala Lakota college. The reservation's college is fascinating for a couple of reasons. First, most of the learning is distance learning. These courses are done over TVs instead of email though. The college has a technogenius who has set this all up. The primary intent of setting this up is to minimize the cost, in terms of money and time for the students, many of whom (especially early on) women with children. Second, it is great how the college serves the needs of the community. One, the majority of the teachers and nurses on the reservation are Lakota as opposed to only a handful a generation ago. Two, the science research that I saw focused a lot on land/agricultural use, specifically that of the reservation, obviously helpful to the people on the reservation. I wonder if the focus on land use comes from an Indian concern for the land or is more practical at this point? Three, the key department, it seems, is the Lakota history. The Indian woman giving us the tour said that she remembered growing up watching Westerns, clapping when the 7th Calvary was coming to save the white people in the wagons. This department reminds people of the richness of their heritage as well as the reality of the past. The other good thing I could see was how the college becomes a way for money to come on the reservation. NASA gave a grant and it was neat to see all of these little kids learning/playing in this super hightech lab/playstation. While money spent does not necessarily produce educational outcomes, its obvious that such an investment does expand the horizons of young kids!

Returning to the 7th Calvary...Wounded Knee was not a battle. They disarmed the Indians and then ended up killing 300 people, 3/4 of which were women and children. Not only were the Indians killed, but the soliders mutliated the bodies of the people. While Wounded Knee is a tragedy, as I reflected on the history, Wounded Knee is a drop in a bucket compared to the legacy of destruction. At one point the government was slaughtering Buffalo for no other reason that depriving the Indians of their food. Land treaty after treaty was broken. Obviously the history I heard today was pretty one-sided, but I still cannot help but remark on the tragedy. Moreover, the Souix (Lakota) are one of many Indian tribes which suffered and died (guns, germs...and alcohol) at the hands of Americans. I think I knew all of this before, but the reality of it was overwhelming today.

Christianity and Indian Culture

Today we went to a Jesuit school, had kids over for playtime and heard two Indian Christians talk about Christianity. I found it fascinating that at the Jesuit School, there was a cemetery in which Red Cloud was buried. Red Cloud had signed a treaty with the white people which the white people ignored and broke. I find it quite interesting that he would be buried at a Jesuit cemetary. There was no one there I could talk with about why this was. Unfortunately, I am sick today.

Also, the Indian kids were a lot of fun. I did not play with them, but from my bed I heard their playful laughs.

The Indians that came tonight were fascinating because they made the point that the most successful missionaries were those that lived in the community and tried to make room for Indian culture within Christianity. But, various levels of tolerance were employed; I would need to get more info on different missionary practies.

Cars: The New Buffalo

Driving by fairly small houses one sees a collection of old cars. One person read that the Indians here are coming to treat cars as they had buffalo: They use every part of it. The old cars are kept around as dog houses (I have seen a lot of dogs) and as collection of old parts.

Reading about the Buffalo in two books I am quite amazed at the role the Buffalo played in their culture. The Buffalo were killed, but the Indians never sought to extinguish them. In some ways, they were not just Buffalo eaters, but Buffalo farmers. They believed in a mystic communion of sorts with the Buffalo.

Which makes me think: Given the property lines that are drawn and the need for Buffalo to roam, what do the Indians here do to replace the spiritual and communal role the Buffaloes in the community?

Furthermore, I was thinking about how different Indian Spirituality is. I was thinking, what can I learn, what can I encorporate, and now I realize how difficult it would have been (would be) for an Indian to adapt Christianity within their context. Apparently, 20 years ago, there was a strong division between Christian and non-Christian Indians. At this time, such division is not as strong. I am curious to see how this amalgam looks like. Perhaps a concrete example of how Indian Spirituality and Christian Spirituality differ -- and not just in terms of theology about Jesus or God: Indians did not gather for weekly services, they came together when they felt the Spirit calling them and then would stay together for a few days.

Jesus Loves Me Revisited

Tonight we sang Jesus Loves Me from a Lakota Hymnal...In English the lyrics are pretty simple: Jesus loves me this I know for the Bible tells me so...Yes, Jesus Loves Me (repeat). In Lakota, the idea of singing Jesus Loves me in front of other peolpe would actually be embarrassing because it ignores the fact that Jesus loves the other people. There sense of community is much stronger than ours! So instead its Jesus is love and therefore also loves me. However, the words "Jesus Loves Me" are also problematic because men and women use different vocabulary in general, but also for love, so the lyrics are what a man would say, but not what a woman would say.

More on the Badlands: We are not fully there, but we drove near them. The rock structures are caynon like and look like cylindrical step pyramids.

More on Pine Ridge: The counties where I am at are two of the poorest in the nation. The poverty has not overwhelmed me yet, but I think when I see the schools tomorrow and the villages, it will be more striking. The thing that is tough is that the prices at the grocery store are still normal, so that low income really means low income.

More on the paper: On the editoral page, the comic was critical of the handout mentality of Indians, the main editorial was a hardline Christian article about transformation...Yet the front page was an article about statistics of crime on the reservation and how this is really the result of the historical robbing of the hand. The point here is that I think everyone is aware of problems; people have different views on their sources and solutions.

More on problems: I need to put away my academic eye that searches for problems and just see what is and what is good!

Initial Impressions and the Long Drive

South Dakota really is flat. The Bad Lands are anything but bad. They were really amazingly pretty. I did a lot of reading on the ride out about Indian Culture. It is really amazing. I think we learned all of this stuff as a kid, but because the Indians were so far removed, I did not emotionally process it. It was so upsetting to read the Newspaper today. It seemed all the articles involved litigation regarding reparations of some sort or depressing news from the Reservation about alcohol or history or identity. One of the stories was about some kids who were running a race that their ancestors ran, breaking out of jail...only to be killed. What a bizarre celebration of the past. The Greek's run a Marathon to victory. The Souix (Lakota) run a race to celebrate Mayrtrdom. I find the alcohol here intimidating. I also see, for the first time, how being a Pastor is being a representative of Christendom. It does not have to be, but I can see how this could be seen that way; nobody alluded to this, I just see how this could be. I look forward to seeing some of the beauty, not just of then, but of today. I also do not want to romanticize a warrior-culture past. Much to consider, much to love, much to learn. For now, I want to sleep!

Dakota Directions

So tomorrow I am going to drive for 10 hours to the Rerservation. Here are my directions:

Take I-35W south to I-90. Go south on #73 at Kadoka until it runs into #18 east of Martin. From there head west on #18 to Pine Ridge. The Retreat Center is three blocks past the first stop light on the right hand side of the street (across from Taco John's).

10 hours and 5 roads. Are we there yet?

-10 is really not as cold as you'd think

It is absurd how much heat the body loses when the temperature of the air is -10. You feel cold so fast. Yesterday I went skiing at it was about -2. That was actually quite painful at first. I felt like I was skiing for my life because if I stopped I just got cold right away. I actually looked forward to the hills because I knew going up I would get warm! It all comes down to the wind though. The air here is so dry that your skin does not feel it right away, but when the wind blows...but seriously, no wind, -10 is doable.

15 below

So when I was in high school, my friend Steve would joke around when playing football. "15 below" he would shout and then handoff a football to me...well, today the wind chill is 17 below. This is actually not a lot of fun and it quite cold. Like you walk 100 yards and your skin is particularly unfortable...but I may still try to go skiing this afternoon.

Rob

What we do for fun at Luther Seminary: Make snow castles! 

Holy Organs batman!

Today in chapel the organist improvised an intro to a song based on Handel's Messiah (not the Hallelujah Chorus either) Well, the temperature today finally cracked 32...although its supposed to get to 13 below on Friday...

When winter finally arrives?!?

So last night, we finally got our first inch of real snow here. So this guy in the Cafeteria today (the temperature today is 20; its not been over 32 since Jan 1) says: Yeah, winter cannot decide if it is here or not. ...20 degrees and snow is not yet really winter!!

Orchestra

On Saturday night I went to the Orchestra. They played a Haydn symphony as well as two harp pieces in the first half. The harp pieces were so relaxing. I almost wished I had fallen asleep because my dreams would have been heavenly. It closed with two pieces by Respighi , Pines of Rome and Fountains of Rome. All in all, the Orchestra played some pretty easy pieces and I was not overwhelmed by the quality of the soloists. However, the atmosphere and energy have no substitute and I look forward to going back. My blood pressure definitely is lower because of it.

Third time is a charm

Yesterday was my third time cross country skiing. I waxed for the first time. Man, that made it such a better experience. My friend Dawn, a fellow Seminarian, who grew up on a dairy farm, is pretty much a pro and took me to school...although I did beat her in 15 foot race at one point. The great thing about skiing is that in spite of the fact that it is 12 degrees outside I sweat like crazy and then I can eat whatever I want!

My friend Jen

Here my friend Jen smilingly relaxes. Hailing from Erie, PA Jen is wonderful gift to us Seminarians, ever faithful in life and prayer.

So far this winter

Cross-country skiis have been picked up. Will use them at Elm Creek State Park. This year, there is so little snow that even in Minnesota they have to make it! Yesterday the Mercury skyrocketd to 21, the high for the year so far.

Off to ski!

Myers Family Christmas dressed in Festive Red. My parents stand between me and my brother.
 

My best friend Charlie and I enjoy a nice walk in scenic downtown St. Paul